Basic Dog Grooming Tips You Need To Know

Brush your dog often

Brushing will stimulate oils in your pets skin & keep it moist & healthy. Brushing will prevent matting of your dogs coat. Brushing is a great way to show your dog attention. Brushing eliminates dead hair in the coat that contributes to shedding.

Maintain the length of your dogs nails

You can walk your dog often to wear down nails. Clip your dogs nails on a regular basis. If they are cut too short they can bleed & sting. Groomers usually charge a little less than veterinarians to cut nails. If you believe your dog will be aggressive about getting their nails cut it is best to take them to the veterinarian.

Bathe your dog regularly

Buy dog shampoos & conditioners from pet stores. Do not use flea & tick shampoos unless your pet needs them, they can dry out your pets skin. Be sure to rinse your dog thoroughly, leaving soap on skin can cause problems. Bathing a dog with knots & mats will worsen them, be sure to eliminate these before or immediately after the bath. When drying your dog use low heat. Dogs are sensitive to burning, keep this in mind while adjusting water temperature. Bathing your dog will cut down on chances of infestations of fleas & ticks. Place cotton in your dogs ears before bathing. Often water in the ears can lead to ear infections. By washing away dead hair, regular bathing reduces shedding of your dogs coat.

keep your dog ears clean

Do this with dog ear cleaner bought from any pet store. Put a small amount of ear cleaner on a cotton ball and swab outer surface of the inner ear. Keeping your dogs ears clean & dry will reduce chance of ear infections & ear mites. You can also buy ear wipes from any pet store to keep your dogs ears clean. Dog groomers & veterinarians can also clean your pets ears for you. Many longhaired dogs grow hair in their ears that needs to be pulled to prevent ear infections. This hair can be gently pulled out with hemostats. Most people leave this to their groomer or vet.

by Rose Lenk

The Basics Of Training Your Dog

As a new dog owner and trainer, you may find yourself a bit overwhelmed at first. Do not be discouraged by this. It is quite common and shows a healthy concern for your pets well being. This being said there are a few very simple rules to remember when training your pet.

If you can remember to remain consistent, keep a level head and reward your pet appropriately then you have won a large part of the battle. What do these three basics entail? We shall discuss that in the following few paragraphs.

Dogs are creatures of habit. Every part of their daily life revolves around an internal schedule and routine. They anticipate the return of their owners at a certain time of day and know that meal times occur regularly. Once trained, they will even exhibit certain behaviors to mark these times of day, such as bringing their empty food dish to their master or waiting near the door for their owners return. To us humans, this may seem a dull existence but our canine companions thrive on consistent routines. This fact is very useful to a new trainer as it can make your job much easier if you use this knowledge. Why? Because canine obedience training revolves around repetition of certain actions.

The goal behind obedience training is the idea that a dog will respond with a certain reaction every time a certain command is given. This means that every time you tell your dog to sit, this will be exactly what will happen. To make use of the animal's instinctive behavior in this regard, one must remember to be consistent with training. Go thru the routines exactly the same way every time with no variation until they are well in hand. If you tell your dog to sit, make certain your pet does so before moving on to the next point, even pushing their hindquarters down if necessary to accomplish this end. This rigid consistency will go a long way towards achieving a well-trained pet.

Let's now move along to the next point of keeping a level head, which is also one of the more difficult points. At the end of a long day of work, you are tired, the dog just doesn't seem to be responding and tempers can flare quite easily. You may decide this dog is just one of the few who can't be trained or that you just don't have the skills.

You might be feeling completely discouraged by a seeming lack of interest on the dogs part to learn even the simplest of behaviors. You will most likely encounter this scenario more than once in your venture at dog training. Just take this moment as a queue that the lesson is done for the time being and retire to some less strenuous amusement such as a hot cup of tea. Dogs are like children and will find the ways to irritate you for amusement it seems. Just like children, they take time and patience in teaching anything worth training them for. Rome wasn't built in a day and your dog won't become a well trained champion over night either.

Now let's move on to the third major point in being a successful trainer. The reward for doing a behavior or trick correctly. This is a very important part of the training process as it builds your relationship with your pet and shows them your appreciation for their good behaviors. Again consistent treatment is important in training and a reward should be given every time a performance of a given command is executed properly.

This is not saying to give your dog a food treat every time. While an occasional tidbit of food is a great reward doing so consistently is not. This would result in an unhealthy pet and be counterproductive to your training efforts. Rather than doing this, offer other forms of reward such as rich verbal praise, play with a favorite toy or petting your dog to show affection. These rewards will enhance your relationship with your pet and make future training sessions even easier as your pet will anticipate these rewards and want to please you.

If these simple steps are kept in mind, your pets training should be an easy task with many rich rewards. Enjoy your pet and make your bond stronger while training with these three principles.

Dog Article courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com

Using Your Dog's Name

How you use your dog's name can cause him much confusion. Your dog will associate related events and see a relationship between contiguous impressions. He gets excited when you get the leash out, right? Sure, because the leash means a walk--a fun event. When you know very well that your dog forms many strong associations, why believe or assume he won't make similar assumptions and learn similar things regarding his name?

For example, I say: "Rover, Come!" and "Rover, Stay!" away from me. The next time I say Rover, do I expect him to break towards me or run away? Because I was just silly enough to teach him it means both! Look at how silly I can be: "Rover, Shut Up!" "Get Down, Rover!" "Rover, NO!" These are great ways to teach him that the word Rover means a reprimand. I then say: "Honey, Rover was so cute today! When Sam visited, Rover played so nicely! Even Carl liked Rover!" Rover just got ignored for paying attention to his name three times because I wasn't talking to him!

What have I done wrong so far here? First, I taught Rover that his name doesn't mean him, so he can ignore it. Second, I taught him it means punishment. Third, I taught him it means to stay away from me. But if he doesn't come to me EVERY time I call him, I'll rip his lips off! Do you see how we confuse our dogs?

One of the most common desires of dog owners is to have their dog come when they call him. This is much easier and more reliably successful if you first remove any reason he has NOT to come when called. If the name means reprimands or to stay away from you, you sure gave him reasons not to come when called!

Here's the answer: Use a dog's name only when you are directly addressing that dog in a positive way. Say it when giving the dog meals, treats, love, massages, petting, walks and whatever he really likes. And the ONLY command you say it with is "Come!" because coming to you should be among your dog's greatest joys, so that's consistent with all the other positive things his name is linked with. If the ONLY times your dog hears his name is "Yes, Rover! Good Rover! Rover, here's a treat! Have a massage, Rover!" how does he NOT come when you call him?

A very effective way to verbally correct a dog and avoid his name is to use specific words. "Off!" means stay on the floor or get off of whatever he's on. "Quiet!" means to be silent--not be bark or howl. "Drop!" means to leave something alone or drop it from his mouth.
So now you don't need a name! If one or two dogs is/are barking, "Quiet!" not only tells them what to do, it tells all of them exactly who you're addressing! The quiet dogs know you mean the loudmouths! Same with Off, Drop, Back, Out or whatever direction you say.
The point is very simple: Don't use your dog's name to mean contradictory or diametrically opposed things. Use it to mean only good things directed to that dog, and make coming to you a very good thing. I've done this for decades with dozens of my own and thousands of client dogs all over the world. I KNOW it works very well!

Given what I hear about training today, the dogs aren't the only ones confused!

Author: Dr. Dennis Fetko, "Dr. Dog"

Japanese Chin


The Japanese Chin is bright and alert and likes being clean and tidy. He is playful, and will sometimes even make up his own tricks to show off to his audience of friends.
  • Group: Toy
  • Height: 8 to 11 inches
  • Coat: Abundant, straight, single, and silky
  • Color: Black and white, red and white

He is naturally clean and makes an ideal pet that can thrive in most any climate. A Japanese Chin is a good companion, bright and alert. He is sensitive, though, with definite likes and dislikes, but rarely, if ever, does he forget friend or foe.

The Japanese Chin is a small, well balanced, lively, aristocratic toy dog with a distinctive Oriental expression. It is light and stylish in action. The plumed tail is carried over the back, curving to either side. The coat is profuse, silky, soft and straight. The dog's outline presents a square appearance.

source: pedigree.com

Puppy Hints

So you got a new puppy, now what? Do you know what kind of puppy you have? Playful? Protective? Outgoing? Shy? Well whatever puppy you have you can use these helpful puppy hints to connect with your new member of the family.
Just remember that if you want your new puppy to obey, respect, and love you then you need to never ever hurt your puppy. Your new puppy needs to feel safe and secure and if you hit him to punish him he will be to scared to obey you, which could lead to other behavior problems like house breaking. Make sure your children are not hitting the puppy too because he is more likely to bite you or them in self defense if you hit him.

Reinforce your puppies' good behavior. Praise and treats are always a good way to do just that. Good behavior such as peeing outside, sitting when told to, no barking in the house, etc. Food is a good motivator also. Puppies learn more easily when food is involved because it is more satisfying then toys at that point. Use part of their daily intake so as to not over feed your new puppy, therefore keeping your new dog healthy while training him. If you need to punish your puppy do not yell, use a lack of attention. Puppies thrive on attention so when you don't pay attention to them that is more then punishment enough.

House train your new puppy as soon as possible. Be consistent! Patience is an absolute must! Your puppy needs time to learn so remember accidents happen. Make sure your puppy socializes. This is important because you can have a well-behaved puppy if you get him into some proactive socializing early on. Your puppies' most impressionable period, just like children, is when they are young, birth to sixteen weeks. So make sure you are doing all you can to help acclimate your dog to society.

Make sure you handle your puppy every day. Such as brushing, baths, toenails being clipped, ear cleaning are just a few. Also examining and brushing your puppies' teeth should be on your list of dos for a healthy dog. Your ultimate goal is to have your puppy comfortable and have him look forward to being handled by you or your children. A stressed out dog is no fun for you or the dog, so make sure your puppy gets used to the attention. Make sure you use treats to praise your pup for good behavior during this time, and be gentle, the respond to kindness and tender care more so then harsh words.

Start training your dog not to bite early on in life. Have your whole household be part of this training. It is natural for a dog to want to bite; they have done it since the beginning of time. But it only takes some simple steps to keep your puppy playful but not dangerous. Try playing with your pooch, getting him to bite you, when he does it to hard say ouch! really loud and let it startle him. Stop playing with him for a few minutes and then start over until he learns to play nicely with out hurting you or your children. After practicing this for a few weeks your pup should be thinking that humans couldn't stand the touch of teeth at all.

Teaching your new puppy what is ok and not ok to chew on is very important. You would like to keep your good shoes good right? Well make sure you teach your pup the ways of your household. Ensuring a happy puppy and happy owner. When you catch him chewing on something he isn't supposed to, face it you will, say loudly NO! Startle him into not chewing on that item. Hand him a chew toy to chew on instead. Praise him for chewing on his toy and he will be more then happy to chew it into oblivion.

Just remember to give your puppy lots of love. They need it to grow up happy, healthy, and obedient.

Dog Article courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com

Bull Terrier

The Bull Terrier is valued as a loyal and loving friend. Because they are so muscular, Bull Terriers need plenty of exercise to stay fit, and love nothing more than playing catch with a bouncy rubber ball. They make the most delightful of compaions--in the city or country.

  • Group: Terrier
  • Coat: Short, flat, harsh, and with a fine gloss
  • Color: White with head markings

Today's Bull Terriers are playful, fun-loving, sensitive, and affectionate dogs who make wonderful pets and companions, despite their tough appearance. They have tiny triangular eyes, and short erect ears. The Bull Terrier is happiest when he is with the people he loves. The closer the better. These dogs are miserable and unhappy if shut away or kept outside away from human companionship.

The Bull Terrier must be strongly built, muscular, symmetrical and active, with a keen determined and intelligent expression, full of fire but of sweet disposition and amenable to discipline.

source : pedigree.com

Bacon Flavored Dog Biscuits

Dog Food Recipe Ingredients:

  • 5 c Whole wheat flour
  • 1 c Milk
  • 2 Eggs
  • 10 tb Vegetable oil or bacon fat
  • 1 pinch Onion or garlic powder
  • 1 ts Salt
  • 1/2 c Coldwater
  • 1 tb Vegetable oil

Dog Food Recipe Directions:

Mix all ingredients well. Pinch off pieces of the dough and roll them into two-inch balls. Put them on a greased cookie sheet. Bake them at 350 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes. Let them cool, then store in an airtight container.

Dog Article courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com

Is Your Dog Spoiled?



Huddled under my umbrella the other day, I was dodging raindrops and puddles as I walked the three blocks from the parking garage to my office. As I was passing an apartment building, I saw an elderly woman standing near the entrance holding an umbrella over her little white poodle dog. Unfortunately, the umbrella wasn't large enough to cover both her and the dog, so she was getting soaked. Unable to withhold comment, I said, "Do you think he'll melt if he gets wet?" She responded, "Well, he's sweet enough to melt, but the truth is that if I don't hold the umbrella for him he gets angry and pouts and won't eat his lunch." And, by dinner time he's an absolute bear! Welcome to the world of the pampered pet.

Although man's best friend has always been his dog, the degree to which man has rewarded that friendship has quite possibly gotten out of hand. Evidence to support that statement can be found in the food we give our pets, the "attire" we put on their backs, the jewelry with which we adorn them, the amenities we provide in their surroundings and the provisions we make for their temporary care when we absolutely have to leave them behind. If necessary, we send "Rover" to counseling sessions with dog psychologists, provide outrageously expensive dental care, clip/wash/curl their hair and make sure their nails are done so as not to embarrass them in front of their friends.

How many of us have spent a restless night because "Missy", our pug faced Pekinese, can't seem to get comfortable in our bed or "Bull", our six ounce Chihuahua, growls and snaps at us when we roll over on him. Yes, for those of you that are disbelievers, many people do share their beds with their doggies. In fact, I've heard of many cases where couples sleep apart rather than crowd the dog. Have you ever tried to argue with a sleepy Doberman Pincher? Forget about it!

A thriving and lucrative industry has grown up around the pampered pet. Pet owners spend multi-millions each year on their little four-legged friends. Occasionally the news media will offer a blurb about the pet owner who spent hundreds, even thousands of dollars on a diamond studded dog collar for "Fluffy." However, this phenomenon is actually rather commonplace. Pick up the "Yellow Pages" in any city and you'll find scads of pet salons that offer expensive pet jewelry and accessories. And just because you've gone to the expense of buying that ruby red sweater, with matching rubies, for "Fifi", don't think your obligation have been fulfilled. If "Fifi" can't have a gold rimmed feeding bowl, like her friends have, she'll no doubt have to double up on her counseling sessions. The expense of this could easily exceed the cost of the bowl.

Now let's get down to diet - what can we feed "Prince", the proud Rottweiler? To be honest, Prince isn't all that fond of dry dog food. He'll eat some of it, but only if mixed with some of that delicious lamb gravy he likes. And, just like most of us, he prefers light fare in the mornings; perhaps a few scrambled eggs and just a slice or two of bacon. Careful not to overfeed though; he likes his lunch of broiled liver at precisely 12 noon. No need to make a big fuss about dinner though, he'll usually eat some (or most) of whatever it is that you're having.

This scenario might involve a slight stretch, but it is certainly not too far fetched. We worry more about what our pets will eat, or if they're "off their feed", than we worry about what our kids eat. I wonder how it is we know that our kids will eat when they get hungry, but we can't accept that this truism might apply to our dogs too. We feel compelled to continue to offer our dogs a full menu from which to select and if all else fails, it's time to schedule a trip to the Vet.

Speaking of Veterinarians - most of them now offer direct deposit so your entire paycheck can be directed right into their accounts. Veterinary expenses have gone through the roof and there's no end to the elaborate medical procedures now being provided routinely. A friend who bellyached for months about the cost of dental appliances (braces) for his kid willingly shelled out $2500 to fix his dog's overbite because "Tiger" appeared to be in discomfort when chewing on his rawhide bone.

Now that we've clearly established that we spoil our dogs, let's offer a word or two in our own defense. Dogs love us without reservation. Scold them, treat then meanly, tease them, leave them for long periods of time or forget to feed them and they'll still love you and want nothing more than to be near you. Throughout history, dogs have given their lives for their masters. "Police" dogs will face an armed attacker to protect their handler and "Seeing Eye" dogs will risk death or injury to steer their Charge away from a speeding car. A dog's love for its master is pure and unquestioning. In my opinion, they deserve all the pampering they can get.

Pets make us feel good. They comfort us, allow us to be ourselves and give those of us that need it, a reason for living.
Dog Article courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com

Chinese Shar-Pei


While very loving toward his family, the Shar-Pei has an independent nature. He may seem uninterested in other people around him and cautious with other animals. Because he is able to think for himself, obedience training requires a strong and patient person. This is a serious and dignified dog.

  • Group: Non-Sporting
  • Height: 18 to 20 inches
  • Weight: 45 to 60 pounds
  • Coat: Harsh
  • Color: Solid colors

The Chinese Shar-Pei is regal, alert, intelligent, and dignified. He may appear independent, snobbish, and standoffish with strangers. But he is extremely devoted to his family. In fact, he has been described as a ''people dog,'' preferring the companionship of humans to that of other dogs. An alert, compact dog of medium size and substance; square in profile, close coupled; the well-proportioned head slightly, but not overly large for the body. The short, harsh coat, the loose skin covering the head and body, the small ears, the ''hippopotamus'' muzzle shape and the high set tail impart to the Shar-Pei a unique look peculiar to him alone. The loose skin and wrinkles covering the head, neck and body are superabundant in puppies, but these features may be limited to the head, neck and withers in the adult.

source : pedigree.com

Chihuahua


The Chihuahua is more than small; he's tiny. His adorable, apple-shaped head and big moist eyes make him nearly irresistible to kids. This sassy charmer is a healthy dog, but he is fragile. He likes to bark and scamper around, but is mainly an indoor dog, not able to tolerate cold weather.

  • Group: Toy
  • Weight: 6 pounds
  • Smooth Coat: Soft texture, close and glossy
  • Long Coat : Soft texture, either flat or slightly curly, with undercoat preferred
  • Color: Any color-solid, marked or splashed

The Chihuahua's size makes it a wonderful dog for people who live in small city apartments. The breed is very hardy and adaptable, but it must live inside a home or an apartment; the Chihuahua should not live outside. Chihuahuas are good travelers and can easily go anywhere with their owners.

A graceful, alert, swift-moving little dog with saucy expression, compact, and with terrier-like qualities of temperament, the Chihuahua comes in two varieties: long and smooth coat.

The Chihuahua is graceful, alert, and swift.

This breed is clannish, recognizing and preferring his own kind. As a rule, he does not like dogs of other breeds.

Legend and history are rich in tales of the ancestors of the present Chihuahua. He is described as a popular pet, as well as a religious necessity, among the ancient Toltec tribes and later among the Aztecs. Archaeologists have discovered remains of this breed in human graves in Mexico and in parts of the United States.

The modern Chihuahua is quite different from his early ancestors, with his variegated colors ranging from snow white to jet black. Mexico favors the jet black with tan markings, and the black and white spotted. The United States prefers the solid colors.

source : pedigree.com

Pyometra

Pyometra in Dogs

What is pyometra?

In its simplest terms, pyometra is an infection in the uterus. Most cases of pyometra are much more difficult to manage than a routine infection.

Infection in the lining of the uterus is established as a result of hormonal changes. Following estrus (heat), progesterone levels remain elevated for 8-10 weeks and thicken the lining of the uterus in preparation for pregnancy. If pregnancy does not occur for several estrus cycles, the lining continues to increase in thickness until cysts form within it. The thickened, cystic lining secretes fluids that create an ideal environment in which bacteria can grow. Additionally, high progesterone levels inhibit the ability of the muscles in the wall of the uterus to contract.

Are there other situations that cause the changes in the uterus?

Yes. The use of progesterone-based drugs can do this. Estrogen will increase the effects of progesterone on the uterus. Drugs containing both hormones are used to treat certain conditions of the reproductive system.

How do bacteria get into the uterus?

The cervix is the gateway to the uterus. It remains tightly closed except during estrus. When it is open, bacteria that are normally found in the vagina can enter the uterus rather easily. If the uterus is normal, the environment is adverse to bacterial survival. When the uterine wall is thickened and cystic, perfect conditions exist for bacterial growth. IWhen these abnormal conditions exist, the muscles of the uterus cannot contract properly. This means that bacteria that enter the uterus cannot be expelled.

When does it occur?

Pyometra may occur in young to middle-aged dogs, though it is most common in older dogs. After many years of estrus cycles without pregnancy, the uterine wall undergoes the changes that promote this disease.

The typical time for pyometra to occur is about 1-2 months following estrus.

What are the clinical signs of a dog with pyometra?

The clinical signs depend on whether or not the cervix is open. If it is open, pus will drain from the uterus through the vagina to the outside. It is often noted on the skin or hair under the tail or on bedding and furniture where the dog has laid. Fever, lethargy, anorexia, and depression may or may not be present.

If the cervix is closed, pus that forms is not able to drain to the outside. It collects in the uterus causing distention of the abdomen. The bacteria release toxins which are absorbed into circulation These dogs often become severely ill very rapidly. They are anorectic, very listless, and very depressed. Vomiting or diarrhea may be present.

Toxins from the bacteria affect the kidneys ability to retain fluid. Increased urine production occurs, and the dog drinks an excess of water. This occurs in both open- and closed-cervix pyometra.

How is it diagnosed?

Dogs that are seen early in the disease may have a slight vaginal discharge and show no other signs of illness. Most dogs with pyometra are not seen until later in the illness. A very ill female dog that is drinking an increased amount of water and has not been spayed is always suspected of having pyometra. This is especially true if there is a vaginal discharge or an enlarged abdomen.

Dogs with pyometra have a marked elevation of the white blood cell count and often have an elevation of globulins (a type of protein produced by the immune system) in the blood. The specific gravity of the urine is very low due to the toxic effects of the bacteria on the kidneys. All of these abnormalities may be present in any dog with a major bacterial infection.

If the cervix is closed, radiographs (x-rays) of the abdomen will often identify the enlarged uterus. If the cervix is open, there will often be such minimal uterine enlargement that the radiograph will not be conclusive. An ultrasound examination can also be helpful in identifying an enlarged uterus and differentiating that from a normal pregnancy.

How is it treated?

The preferred treatment is to surgically remove the uterus and ovaries. This is called an ovariohysterectomy (spay). Dogs diagnosed in the early stage of the disease are very good surgical candidates. The surgery is only slightly more complicated than a routine spay. Most dogs are diagnosed when they are quite ill so the surgery is not as routine as the same surgery in a healthy dog. Intravenous fluids are often needed before and after surgery. Antibiotics are given for 1-2 weeks.

My dog is a valuable breeding bitch. Can anything else be done other than surgery?

There is a medical approach to treating pyometra. Prostaglandins are a group of hormones that reduce the blood level of progesterone, relax and open the cervix, and contract the uterus to expel bacteria and pus. They can be used successfully to treat this disease, but they are not always successful and they have some important limitations.

    1. They cause side-effects of restlessness, panting, vomiting, defecation, salivation, and abdominal pain. The side-effects occur within about 15 minutes of an injection and last for a few hours. They become progressively milder with each successive treatment and may be lessened by walking the dog for about 30 minutes following an injection.

    2. There is no clinical improvement for about 48 hours so dogs that are severely ill are poor candidates.

    3. Because they contract the uterus, it is possible for the uterus to rupture and spill infection into the abdominal cavity. This is most likely to happen when the cervix is closed.
There are some important statistics that you should know about this form of treatment:

    1. The success rate for treating open-cervix pyometra is 75-90%.

    2. The success rate for treating closed-cervix pyometra is 25-40%.

    3. The rate of recurrence of the disease is 50-75%.

    4. The chances of subsequent successful breeding is 50-75%.
What happens if neither of the above treatments are given?

The chance of successful treatment without surgery or prostaglandin treatment is extremely low. If treatment is not performed quickly, the toxic effects from the bacteria will be fatal. If the cervix is closed, it is also possible for the uterus to rupture, spilling the infection into the abdominal cavity. This will also be fatal. Spaying your dog will give her and you years of joyful companionship free from disease and pain.

source : http://www.sniksnak.com/doghealth/pyometra.html

Exercising your dog


Ease him into it

For the purpose of developing an exercise plan, ask your vet to provide a physical exam of your dog that includes a look at his cardiac and circulatory systems, and rules out any skeletal or joint disorders. Based on the test results, your dog's size, his breed and age, your vet can advise how much activity your dog needs.

While waiting for test results, ease your dog into exercise that's appropriate for his current activity level. Take him for a moderately paced walk or for a swim. Observe how active he is and how long he can sustain higher activity levels for. Be sure to watch for any unusual signs of fatigue or trouble breathing. If he wants to stop, by all means, let him.
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Consider his size and breed

If you have a small dog, he may be getting all the exercise he needs just by scampering around the house and going on moderate walks. Larger dogs, on the other hand, often will just hang out inside. Sometimes they move around the house with their owners, sometimes they don't. But the house is usually too small for them to get most of the exercise they need.

Something else to consider is what your dog was bred to do. Is he a lap dog, bred to sit around and look pretty all day? Or is he a hunter or retriever who would rather be outside staking out a squirrel or rabbit?

Personal training 101

Once you have the "go-ahead" from your vet to start a new exercise routine, start him off with gradual conditioning, just as you'd do for yourself. This is far better for him than just jumping into a strenuous program. Dogs need to strengthen their muscles, joints, cardiac systems and even their footpads.

There are a few reasons why your adult dog loves getting outside. First, to "correspond" with other dogs, by both sniffing and marking hydrants, trees, newspaper boxes etc. Second, to actually meet his friends face-to-face or nose-to-butt�and third, to have some serious chase-time.

In order to let him enjoy all aspects of being outdoors, cross-train him. First, warm him up with a slow-paced casual "social" walk. Then, at the dog park, let him frolic and connect with his pals. Once he gets into high gear, pull out the Frisbee or ball and give him a good work-out playing fetch or jogging with him around the park. Be sure to follow your vet's recommendations on how long your dog should sustain high-impact activity. Then give him a final "cool-down" with a few final sniffs on the return home.

Older "athletes"

If your adopted dog is older, you need to encourage him to get up and go out every day. Don't push him too hard, though. Walking is better than running. But also don't let him get fat. Just like with humans, as your dog gets older, his body slows down, and he'll be more apt to put on weight. Moderate exercise will help stave off joint problems and ease arthritis, as well.

Easing your adopted dog into a suitable exercise plan, no matter what his age, not only improves his overall health, it can also help his temperament, too. The phrase "a good dog is a tired dog" is a truism, especially when first getting to know your newly adopted dog. After all, consistent exercise can help your dog release stress as he adjusts to his new living situation.
source www.pedigree.com

CANINE PARVOVIRUS


Parvovirus is a HIGHLY CONTAGIOUS virus that attacks the intestines and causes sloughing of the inner layers of the intestine. The most common symptoms of this disease (the “intestinal form”) are vomiting and diarrhea. Another less common form, the “cardiac form”, occurs in very young pups (less than 8 weeks of age) and attacks the heart muscle, often resulting in sudden death.

Parvovirus is contagious to dogs only—not to cats or people. Any age, breed, or sex of dog could be affected by parvovirus. However, infection with parvovirus does not automatically mean illness. Several factors such as age, environment, stress, parasites, and general health status of each individual dog infected could affect the severity of the disease. The degree of illness could range from very mild to unapparent to very severe, often resulting in death. The disease is usually more severe in young dogs (less than 6 months of age), old dogs, Rottweilers, and Dobermans. The younger and smaller the dog, the greater the chance that it will not recover.

Parvovirus is resistant to extremes of temperature (i.e., it survives freezing and extreme heat) and is unharmed by detergents, alcohol, and common disinfectants. Direct transmission occurs when an infected dog comes in contact with a healthy dog. The virus is found in heavy concentration in the infected dog’s stool. Because dogs will usually sniff where another dog has eliminated, this fecal-oral transmission is the most common method of transmission. The virus particles can be easily spread by hands, shoes, clothing, or other inanimate objects (fomites)—this is an indirect source of transmission.

As many as 30 billion parvovirus particles can be shed from the intestines of an infected dog in every ounce of stool. The highest concentration of virus in the stool is seen when the infected dog is showing signs of illness. A dog can, however, be a source of infection to other dogs without it having observable signs of illness (the disease may be incubating). Transmission can occur for at least 3 weeks after a dog becomes infected with the virus. Chronic “carriers” are not known to exist as in other viral diseases. Parvovirus in the environment can infect susceptible dogs for as long as 6 months once shed in the stool.

Clinical signs include vomiting, fever, loss of appetite, depression, and bloody diarrhea with a very foul odor. Infected animals rapidly dehydrate and severe cases progress to shock and death. Early, vigorous treatment of illness caused by canine parvovirus infection can save lives.

Cardiac form (less than 8 weeks of age):

  • Sudden death

  • Crying, difficulty breathing, gasping for breath

  • Extreme depression

  • Weakness

  • Unwillingness to nurse

  • Irregular heartbeat

Intestinal form (any age dog affected, but more severe in puppies):

  • Depression

  • Loss of appetite

  • Fever (usually above 103F)

  • Vomiting with or without blood

  • Diarrhea with or without blood (more serious if blood present)

  • Low white blood cell count (due to immunosuppression)

Treatment is aimed at maintaining the normal body composition and preventing secondary bacterial infection. Because this is a virus, there is NO CURE. Death from parvovirus results from dehydration, overwhelming secondary bacterial infection, blood loss from intestinal hemorrhage, or heart attack from invasion of the heart muscle by the virus.

Early FLUID THERAPY is the most important factor in treating dogs with parvovirus infection. The body is normally about 80% water. Life is NOT possible when 12-15% of the normal body fluids are lost. Intravenous fluids both rehydrate the body and nourish the sick dog.

Additional treatment includes prevention of secondary bacterial infection and drugs to control vomiting and diarrhea. No food or water is given while the dog is vomiting. Repeated laboratory tests are often necessary to monitor your pet’s white blood cell count and state of hydration.

HOSPITALIZATION enables us to provide the best medicine and is the best way to achieve success. There is NO GUARANTEE, even with hospitalization, that your pet will survive. With most dogs, there is at least a 70% survival rate. Very small (young) puppies, Rottweilers, and Dobermans usually only have a 30-50% chance of survival. Length of treatment depends on the severity of disease. Most dogs have to stay hospitalized for at least 2-4 days, but may require treatment for as long as a week. Dogs that recover from parvo are often weak, making them even more susceptible to other diseases, such as distemper. Dogs that recover from parvo continue to spread the virus in the feces for a month or longer.

Prevention/Control of parvovirus by sanitation measures alone is extremely difficult because the virus is such a resistant, hardy organism and because it is so easily spread. Contact with other dogs,and especially their stool, should be minimized. Clorox diluted one part to 30 parts water (4 oz Clorox in 1 gallon of water) has been effective in disinfecting inanimate objects such as clothing, floors, kennels, etc. However, it is impractical, if not impossible, to disinfect public streets, parks, etc. Isolation of infected dogs is another method of control, moderately effective. Both of these measures will help reduce the amount of contagious virus in the environment, but only a full series of vaccinations, with appropriate booster intervals, will help to control the source of infection, the contagious shedding dog.

Guidelines for young puppies:

1. Do not take the puppy to the front yard, park, for a walk around the block, or to pet stores. These are all places where infected dogs have been or presently are.

2. Only have the puppy around adult dogs that YOU KNOW are current on vaccinations. There should be no contact with stray dogs or dogs that you are not sure of.

3. Do not let the puppy be exposed to any other puppies. These pups could be incubating the disease (and therefore be contagious) without showing signs of illness.

4. Always wash your hands after handling any dog.

Vaccination is the most effective preventive measure for canine parvovirus disease. A properly immunized dog will have circulating antibodies in the blood that will destroy parvovirus following exposure. Dogs remain HIGHLY SUSCEPTIBLE to parvo until 2-4 weeks after the last injection of the immunization series.

The Role of Maternal Antibody in Puppy Immunization

Maternal antibodies are antibodies against viruses which are passed from the mother to the puppies through the “first milk” or colostrum. They provide the puppy with an immediate temporary or “passive” immunity. The mother obtains these antibodies from prior vaccination or by natural exposure to parvovirus. However, maternal antibody is a two-edged sword; it protects the puppy against disease early in life, but it also blocks active immunization (the puppy's immune response to vaccinations). In the case of parvovirus, maternal antibody can interfere with vaccination for as long as 14 to 16 weeks of age in some pups. A refractory period can exist in some pups where very low, almost undetectable levels of maternal antibody will inhibit the vaccination process but will NOT PREVENT parvovirus infection. Since the level of maternal antbody varies from puppy to puppy, IT IS IMPORTANT TO BEGIN VACCINATION AT AN EARLY AGE AND REPEAT EVERY 3-4 WEEKS UNTIL THE PUPPY IS AT LEAST 16-18 WEEKS OLD.


Notify the Doctor if the Following Occur

  • Your dog’s stool contains blood, or the diarrhea returns.

  • You cannot medicate your dog as instructed.

  • Your dog vomits or is reluctant to eat.

  • There is a change in your dog’s general health.

  • Your dog does not drink water.

Note: This article is provided by Claws & Paws Veterinary Hospital® for informational purposes only.

WHAT SEX MAKES THE BETTER PET?


Many people think that sexual behaviour is an exclusively male domain. In fact, intact females are generally more moody and emotional than males. Intact females' heat cycles will be a regular issue to deal with. Hormone fluctuations can cause significant coat loss (in Pomeranians) Females at these times may not appear their best. Seasonal heats can be a three week long period and occurs twice a year. Most fights will usually break out between 2 females.

Males are usually more affectionate and more demanding of attention. No matter what age, a male is more fun-loving, always wanting to play games.

Male Pomeranians are normally more beautiful all year round with much more coat.

Males who were neutered early, at 5-6 months (not earlier, not later!) usually don’t ever raise their leg to urinate and won’t display behaviour like ‘humping’ and ‘marking’. They are very attached to their owners, tend to be more steadfast and less moody.

Males are much more easily available than females and normally cost much less than the females. They generally cost half the price to have neutered as a female does to be spayed. They will not mark their territory and no seasonal heats. From my experience, I recommend the male as the “better pet.”
This article was written by a Pomeranian breeder, but many breeders of other breeds agree!

Rabies

What every dog owner should know about rabies

Introduction

Rabies is a virus that can affect any warm-blooded animal; whenever someone is bitten by an animal, the chance of rabies exists. Although the incidence of rabies in humans is low, more than 30,000 people undergo treatment for possible exposure to rabies in the US.

Rabies primarily attacks the nervous system and causes an encephalitis. The virus is transmitted in saliva from the bite of an infected animal. The incubation period prior to clinical signs is extremely variable, but is usually two-to-eight weeks. The virus will begin shedding in saliva a short time before clinical signs develop, usually less than 10 days.

For both humans and domestic animals, the primary source of rabies is the bite of a rabid wild animal. The most common of these are skunk, raccoon, bat, and fox. Currently, the number of cats infected with rabies has surpassed that of dogs. The main reasons are that there are now more cats than dogs and cats tend to roam more often.
Clinical signs

There are three phases to the course of the disease: prodromal, furious, and paralytic. Death occurs three to-seven days from the onset of signs.

The prodomal stage lasts two-to-three days. The signs can include behavioral changes, fever, slow eye reflexes, and chewing at the bite site.

The furious stage lasts two-to-four days. During this stage, signs of erratic behavior may include irritability, restlessness, barking, aggression, vicious attacks on inanimate objects, and unexplained roaming. Disorientation and seizures may also develop.

The paralytic stage lasts two-to-four days, during which signs of paralysis develop, usually beginning in the limb that was bitten. Paralysis of the throat and face cause a change in the bark, drooling with typical foaming at the mouth, and a dropped jaw. These signs are followed by depression, coma, and death from respiratory paralysis.

Once clinical signs develop, there is no treatment.
Prevention in pets

All dogs and cats should be vaccinated against rabies according to local rules and regulations. Wild animals kept as pets should never be vaccinated, and contact with wild animals should be avoided. The recommendations for a pet bitten by a wild animal or a known rabid animal are as follows:

If the pet has been vaccinated, re-vaccinate and quarantine for 90 days.

If the pet has not been vaccinated, euthanize and submit tissue for rabies testing. If the owner is unwilling to euthanize the pet, it should be strictly quarantined for six months with vaccination one month prior to release.

As strict as this protocol sounds, it is the proper procedure to ensure that no one else is infected with this deadly disease.
Prevention in people

People should also avoid wild animal contact. A skunk, raccoon, or fox walking down the street in broad daylight is not out to play; obviously the animal is sick and rabies should be the first disease on the list of possibilities.

If a person is bitten by an animal that is healthy and properly vaccinated, the animal must be quarantined for 10 days. If the bite is from a wild animal, it should be euthanized and submitted for testing. Unfortunately, the wild animal often escapes and cannot be tested.

If escape occurs, a physician should decide if the victim should undergo post-exposure prophylaxis. Rabies post-exposure vaccines are given on days zero, three, seven, 14, and 28 following the bite.

It is critical to keep pets vaccinated against this disease. Please contact your local veterinarian or health department for vaccine protocols. Some areas require annual vaccination, while others allow a three-year vaccine. Recent outbreaks of rabies in Texas and Florida point to the need for prevention. This is one disease we can and must control.

Editor's note: There is no state law for rabies vaccination in Ohio, but each county health department sets local rules. Some counties require that both cats and dogs be immunized, while others mandate only for dogs. Although cases of rabies are few and far between, the disease is serious enough that immunization is highly recommended.
More information on rabies is available at The Department of Rabies at the Pasteur Institute. Follow the link to the English version, if desired.
James T. Middendorf, DVM

Selecting Dog Food


All Natural Dog Food All Natural Dog Food

Commercial dog food is a great convenience for busy caregivers. You want the best for your companion animals, but with a bewildering array of foods and claims to choose from, how do you decide what's best for your animals?

Standards For Dog Food Ingredients

The dog food industry is huge and extremely profitable ($25 billion a year in revenue worldwide). While manufacturers may appear to have the best interests of your companion animals at heart, they are generally more concerned about their stock prices and bottom lines. This may be especially true of dog food manufacturers owned by large, diverse, multinational parent companies. What this means to you is that if an inexpensive ingredient is available to replace a costlier one, many companies will make the substitution to save money. A few companies pride themselves on their "fixed formulas," meaning that they always use the same ingredients. This may be good ... if the ingredients are of acceptable quality to begin with.

Healthy Dog Food System Natural Dog Food System

Dog food may be labeled as "complete and balanced" if it meets the standards set by a group called AAFCO, the Association of American Feed Control Officials. These standards were formulated in the early 1990s by panels of canine and feline nutrition experts. A food may be certified in two ways: (1) by meeting AAFCO's published standards for content ("Nutrient Profiles"), or (2) by passing feeding tests or trials. While most researchers agree that feeding tests are superior in assessing the nutritional adequacy of a food, clinical experience as well as scientific studies have confirmed that even foods that pass feeding trials may still be inadequate for long-term maintenance. Also keep in mind that the standards set only "minimums" and "maximums," not "optimums." Commercial foods are designed to be adequate for the average animal, but not all foods will be suitable for an individual animal's variable needs.

Dog Food Problems

Commercial dog foods and some dog food ingredients have been implicated in a number of diseases in companion animals. Allergic skin disease, obesity, food intolerance, inflammatory bowel disease, chronic ear infections, cystitis (bladder inflammation), bladder and kidney stones, certain heart diseases, pancreatitis, feline hyperthyroidism, hip dysplasia, canine mammary cancer, bloat, and diabetes all have nutritional components - that is, nutritional factors are suspected or known to play a role in inducing or perpetuating these diseases. Thus, it is crucial that we, as caregivers, pay close attention to what we are feeding our animals and how they are reacting to the food.

One potential problem with commercial dog food is pesticide residues, antibiotics, and molds contained in dog food ingredients. Meat from sick animals may be loaded with drugs, some of which are known to pass unchanged through all the processing done to create a finished dog food (such as penicillin and pentobarbital). Between 1995 and 1999, there were two major recalls of dry dog food by different manufacturers due to mold contamination of grain ingredients. Some fungal toxins are very dangerous. The second recalled food killed more than 20 dogs.

Another problem is the unpredictable quality of common dog food ingredients. By-products, by-product meal, meat and bone meal, and similar ingredients can vary widely in their nutrient composition. Bone meals in the U.S. have had a lead contamination problem for many years. The protein in a meal containing a large amount of bone may be poorly digestible and fail to provide adequate nutrition, even though chemical analysis will reveal an acceptable amount of amino acids.

One of the biggest problems with commercial foods is the processing they undergo. Meals are rendered (cooked) at moderate to high temperatures for hours. Extruded foods pass through a steam heat/high pressure device that allows them to "puff" into kibble shapes when they come out of the machine. Even though they move through the extruder quickly, the extreme conditions may alter or damage some nutrients.

Dog food manufacturers are aware of these factors, and most add sufficient extra vitamins, minerals and other nutrients to compensate for losses in the manufacturing process. However, because the AAFCO profiles set only minimums for many nutrients, tests have shown that some minerals may be added to the food in excessive amounts.

Dog Food Label "Rules"

* The 95% Rule: If the product says "Salmon Cat Food" or "Beef Dog Food," 95% of the product must be the named ingredients. A product with a combination label, such as "Beef and Liver for Dogs," must contain 95% beef and liver, and there must be more beef than liver, since beef is named first.

* The 25% or "Dinner" Rule: Ingredients named on the label must comprise at least 25% of the product but less than 95%, when there is a qualifying "descriptor" term like "dinner," "entree," "formula," "platter," "nuggets," etc. In "Beef Dinner for Dogs," beef may or may not be the primary ingredient. If two ingredients are named ("Beef and Turkey Dinner for Dogs"), the two ingredients must total 25%, there must be more of the first ingredient (beef) than the second (turkey), and there must be at least 3% of the lesser ingredient.

* The 3% or "With" Rule: A product may be labeled "Cat Food with Salmon" if it contains at least 3% of the named ingredient.
The "Flavor" Rule: A food may be labeled "Turkey Flavor Cat Food" even if the food does not contain such ingredients, as long as there is a "sufficiently detectable" amount of flavor. This may be derived from meals, by-products, or "digests" of various parts from the animal species indicated on the label. Source: Animal Protection Institute


Dog Article courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com

Why Does Your Dog Do That?


This question seems to resound around the earth among new pet owners everywhere. Thousands of people at this very moment are looking at some odd behavior and asking themselves just why is the dog doing this? Let's look at a few of the common behaviors and see if we can understand the reasons behind them.

The first is the age old problem of garbage can raiding. This behavior is quite annoying as it creates a huge and unsightly mess to clean up. It involves an animal willfully tipping a trash receptacle and then going thru the contents, leaving a lot of destruction and debris in their wake. Why does Fido do this? Well, the simple answer is hunger. Your dog most likely smelled something delicious in the trash can, like perhaps a carryout box or even a piece of meat you threw out of the refrigerator. This problem can usually be resolved by getting rid of odiferous objects such as table scraps in a separate sealed bag or by using a more stable trashcan. If the outdoor receptacle seems to be the common target, have an enclosure built around it to keep the animal out.

Another common mystery to dog owners is the eating of grass. Dogs are naturally carnivorous, rather than herbivorous, it is hard to understand how an animal would bypass a plate of steak to go mow the yard with its teeth. The answer lies in the animal's own stomach. Your pet may have a bellyache from the plate of steak you gave him this afternoon. Dogs eat vegetation when they feel poorly, especially with illnesses related to digestion. This is probably not a danger to your pet unless your yard has been chemically treated. However, it is advisable to keep an eye on your pets eating habits and behaviors. If the animal displays signs of poor health a veterinary visit would be in order.

Another habit human companions of our canine friends find disgusting is litter box raiding. The scientific name for this situation is Coprophagy but even without the fancy word, we all know exactly what we mean here, if you let the dog in a house with a litter box, you can bet the dog will find it within no time. But why does your dog insist on eating what the cat left behind? There are many theories as to why our dogs do this. Some medical conditions can cause the symptom to occur. Some of these medical conditions include pancreatic of intestinal dysfunction, starvation or even severe malnutrition due to advanced infections of parasite such as worms.

Others believe that the eating of feces may be a way for dogs to replenish their B vitamin supply or a hold over from evolution. Still others claim it is a psychological condition caused by nervousness or a guilt complex instilled by an owner who was too harsh in housebreaking. No matter what the reason for it, the easiest way to prevent it is to keep the animals yard and walking area free of feces of any type including their own. Aside from this, walk your dog on a leash so as to have control should they find something you missed. Also put the cats litter box up out of the dogs reach but still accessible to the cat or get a litter box with a hood system. A visit to the veterinarian would also be in order as this condition may be symptomatic of various ailments and could also be a contributing factor in the animal developing a parasite infestation.

Hopefully these short insights into your dogs mind have given you a bit more information on what makes your dog tick. By understanding how your dog thinks, it is much easier to train them to perform or quit performing various actions as the case may be. For almost every behavior imaginable, someone else has experienced it and wrote about it on the Internet. If your dog is doing something you just can't comprehend or that makes you think your pet has lost its mind, do a bit of research and maybe you will find the dog's motivation and how to cure that problem that's driving you mad or at least satisfy your curiosity so you don't have to ask, Why does Fido do that?
Dog Article courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com

Dog Food Secrets Revealed



Dog food is plant or animal material intended for consumption by dogs. Special dog foods given as a reward, and not as a staple, are known as dog treats.

Some people make their own natural dog food or feed their dogs meals made from ingredients purchased in grocery or health-food stores; many others rely on commercially manufactured dog food and natural dog food.
Homemade Dog Food

* Healthy & Safe Dog Food

There are many different recommendations on what diet is best for dogs. Some people argue that commercial dog foods contain additives or poor-quality (or even dangerous) meat or ingredients that dogs should not ingest or that certain commercial foods are not nutritionally sufficient for their dogs. Different homemade diets are recommended by various experts, from "natural dog food" diets consisting primarily of raw meat, to vegetarian diets consisting only of nutritionally balanced vegetarian ingredients, to mixtures consisting of ingredients such as brown rice, brown pasta, meats, eggs, and vegetables.

Most dogs willingly eat vegetables, particularly if they are cooked, and many kinds of fruit, although grapes and raisins are toxic to dogs.

See our free Dog Food Recipes cookbook to search for healthy and safe homemade natural dog food recipes.
Commercial Dog Food

By its water content, commercial dog food can be categorized into following types:

* Dried
* Semi-moist
* Moist

The Making Of Dog Food

* Veterinarian Recommended Dog Food

Dried pellet dog food, called kibble, is made in two different ways: extruding and baking. During extruding, a mixture of raw materials is fed into an expander while pressurized steam or hot water is added. When removed from the pressure, the pellets puff like popcorn. The pellets are allowed to dry, then sprayed with vitamins, grease, or any other ingredients that are not heat-tolerant. The down side of extruding is that the fats added after cooking often turn rancid and the vitamins may be destroyed by heat during storage or shipping.

Dog treats are usually higher in grease or fats. These are usually designed to be held in a person's hand without being messy, and are often designed in fanciful shapes and colors.
Common Ingredients In Commercial Dog Food

Most commercial dog foods are made from materials unusable or less desirable for human consumption. These may include:

* Meat by-products or digests
* Meat-and-bone meals
* Grain by-products
* Restaurant grease
* Less expensive foods generally include less meat, and more meat by-products and grain "fillers".

The most expensive dogs foods may be made of ingredients suitable for human consumption, organic products or free-range meats.
Special Dog Food Varieties

* Weight Loss Food For Dogs

There are dog foods specially formulated to dogs that are allergic to wheat, corn, and/or chicken. These foods usually contain lamb or fish meat. Some dog foods are designed for dogs with maladies such as urinary tract infections, and some foods are tailored to the dietary needs of especially young or old dogs. There also exist vegetarian dog foods and natural dog food marketed to owners who do not wish for their dogs to consume meat products. Source: Wikipedia
Source: Wikipedia

3 Secrets To Better Dog Training


There are virtually as many approaches to training a dog as there are dogs to train! It seems as if every day new systems and techniques are announced or older methods are resurrected. Check a bookstore shelf or do a quick internet search and you will be overwhelmed with the number of ways people may advocate training a dog.

Despite the tremendous diversity of methods, almost every successful dog training system is premised on positive reinforcement techniques. The once frequent techniques involving intimidation, humiliation and punishment have long been abandoned in the face of growing proof of their relative ineffectiveness. All of the new, more effective, recommended means of dog training share something else in common: their effectiveness can be enhanced significantly by remembering three simple secrets.

Start Young

We've all been told a thousand times "you can't teach an old dog new tricks." That popular old saying, of course, is not entirely true. Any dog, regardless of age, can learn new things. However, like most old adages, it has been remembered because it contains a kernel of truth. Dogs, like humans, are much more receptive to learning new behaviors when young. The earlier you are able to start training your dog, the more effective the training will be.

Puppies will learn at a much faster clip and do not have ingrained behaviors that must be un-learned. Thus, any training regimen is sure to be more successful when conducted with a puppy for a subject instead of an older dog.

If you weren't able to start training a particular dog when he or she was younger, don't fret. Training is still effective for older animals. However, if you do have the chance, start training early and you'll reap the benefits of increased effectiveness.

Remain Gentle

Dogs are social animals and develop a real attachment to their owners. That attachment, in large measure, is at the heart of successful dog training. A dog who trusts his owner and who sincerely wants to please his companion is far more likely to remain attentive and compliant during the training process.

A failure to act gently jeopardizes the training program by undermining the quality of the dog/owner relationship.

Of course, aggressive behavior also runs contrary to the very foundations of most dog training techniques. Dog training is premised on the notion that positive reinforcement techniques best modify dog behavior. The interjection of inconsistent activity frustrates that process. Furthermore, there are ethical and moral concerns about mistreating an animal, in addition to the practical concerns. By making a commitment to retain gentleness throughout the training process one can insure they are consistently treating their dog appropriately.

A gentle dog owner will find himself with an ally for a trainee rather than a rival. Instead of a battle of the wills, training can become a cooperative exercise. Under those conditions, training tends to take less time and be far more effective.

Emphasize Prevention

Too often, training a dog devolves into a series of constant corrections for behaviors the owner finds unsuitable. This reduces the pleasure found in dog training as well as its overall effectiveness. A strong emphasis on preventing inappropriate behavior reduces the need for correction efforts and can help spur quick progress.

The basic goal of prevention is to intervene before a problem is created instead of simply responding to the problem. Instead of waiting for the dog to make a mistake to correct, the prevention-minded owner will keep close watch to see imminent difficulties and will intervene early to prevent them from arising in the first place.

This technique allows one to avoid spending undue time on correction and to emphasize real positively reinforced training methods, keeping a program on track and accelerating its successes. It also decreases frustration throughout the training process making it more enjoyable for both the dog and the owner.

Although there is a multitude of training strategies form which one can choose, all of them can have their effectiveness increased by adhering to the aforementioned principles. By starting early, remaining gentle and emphasizing prevention, any reasonable method of dog training can garner better results. These three secrets, if always operating in the background, serve to push the effectiveness of any training technique.


Dog Article courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com

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